Grilled Sardines

The smell hits you first. Smoky charcoal, sizzling fish, and centuries of tradition wrapped into one intoxicating aroma that fills the narrow streets of Alfama and Graça each June. Sardinhas assadas are grilled sardines, and they're one of Portugal's 7 gastronomic wonders. This simple dish came from fishing communities along the Atlantic coast who needed a fast way to cook their catch right after returning from sea.

The method hasn't changed: fresh sardines, coarse salt, and charcoal fire. The tradition connects to Saint Anthony, born here in 1195. Legend says a school of sardines stopped swimming to listen to him preach by a river. During the Festas de Santo António every June, these historic neighborhoods transform into massive street celebrations where sardines are grilled on every corner. Portuguese people eat more sardines per person than any other nation on earth, roughly 13 pounds annually.

The fish are grilled whole with scales on to protect the flesh. The skin gets crispy and charred while the meat stays moist. They're served on thick bread slices that soak up the flavorful oils. Sardine season runs from late May through October, when the fish are fattest and most flavorful.