
This place witnessed one of Portugal's most pivotal moments in 1147, when a single act of courage changed everything. The church beside you, Igreja de Santa Luzia, stands where Knights of Malta built their headquarters in the 12th century, right after Christians reclaimed the city from 400 years of Moorish rule. Look at the blue and white tile panels on the church wall. One shows the exact moment knight Martim Moniz threw his body into a castle gate during a brutal four month siege.
He held it open just long enough for King Afonso Henriques' army to storm through and capture São Jorge Castle above you. His sacrifice won back the city. The other panel reveals Praça do Comércio as it looked before the 1755 earthquake and tsunami destroyed it completely. The church itself tells another story. After that devastating earthquake flattened much of the area, architect Mateus Vicente de Oliveira rebuilt it in the 18th century. Notice the Maltese cross above the entrance.
This remains the Portuguese headquarters of the Order of Malta, an 900 year old military order still active across the world. The viewpoint overlooks Alfama, the oldest neighborhood that survived because it was built on bedrock.
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