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Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmüller

See that narrow alley? You're standing at Wollzeile, where a passageway leads to Figlmüller, the restaurant that turned Wiener Schnitzel into a spectacle. The Figlmüller family opened their tavern in 1905, serving traditional Viennese food in cramped quarters just off Stephansplatz.

 

But Wiener Schnitzel itself? Not exactly Viennese. In the 1850s, Field Marshal Radetzky sent the recipe back from Milan, where locals had been frying Cotoletta alla Milanese for centuries. Breaded veal, yes. But normal sized.

 

The Figlmüller twist came later. After World War I, meat was expensive and customers were hungry. So the owner started pounding each cutlet thinner and thinner, stretching every portion. The breading puffed up during frying, creating that golden crust everyone recognizes.

 

What began as clever economics became the signature. A Figlmüller schnitzel covers the entire plate. Actually, it hangs over the edges by several centimeters.

 

The technique stayed the same. Pound the veal until it's almost transparent. Bread it carefully. Fry it in clarified butter until it floats. The result: more crunch than meat, lighter than you'd expect.

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