Culture Madrid

Avenida de los Obuses

The people of Madrid called this street Shell Avenue, and life simply carried on.

2 min readGran Vía

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An impact from the bombardment of 17 November 1936, a few hundred metres away on the Puerta del Sol.

The wide street you're standing on now was officially called Avenida de Rusia during , though people in Madrid called it Avenida de los Obuses among themselves, Shell Avenue, and that nickname had everything to do with the direction you're looking.

The artillery up on Garabitas was positioned so that the lay directly in the line of fire, and because the street runs dead straight to the east, the shells came tearing down its whole length. The gunners also had a fixed point to aim for, because four kilometres away the tower of the , the telephone company headquarters, rose above everything else, so anything within a block of it felt the impact, and whoever had to cross that stretch of street did it at a run.

People adapted, because one pavement was safer than the other and everyone knew it. Shops stayed open, the cinemas kept showing films, and whoever was waiting in a queue scattered when the alarm sounded and then simply rejoined it afterwards.

That's the strange thing about a city under siege: life doesn't stop, it shifts a few metres over.

The Gran Vía carries you further east, as far as the Plaza de Callao.

Map showing Gran Vía, hoek Calle de San Bernardo, 28013 Madrid
Gran Vía, hoek Calle de San Bernardo, 28013 MadridMadrid
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Sources. Story: Hispanopedia, Gran Vía (Madrid) and Batalla de Madrid; Ayuntamiento de Madrid, Pasea Madrid, route on the foreign correspondents in the Civil War. Photos: Unknown photographer, impact of the bombardment of 17 November 1936 on Madrid, public domain via Wikimedia Commons.

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