History Madrid

El Estanque

The pond where the royal court staged mock sea battles, with the monument to Alfonso XII rising on the far side.

1 min readEstanque Grande del Retiro

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The pond where the court staged mock sea battles, with the monument to Alfonso XII behind it.

The pond in front of you is older than the park that surrounds it. had it dug beside the palace that once stood here, and the court amused itself on the water with replica galleys, with gondolas, and with staged spectacles that included full sea battles.

Almost nothing of that palace survives, because the was largely lost during , when French troops turned the grounds into a fortress. Only in 1868 did the park pass to the city and open its gates to everyone.

The monument across the water came much later. designed it for , who reigned in the late nineteenth century, with a semicircular colonnade and the king on horseback, unveiled in 1922, so that anyone renting a little rowing boat today paddles along beneath his gaze.

We keep to the southern shore and follow the wide path on towards the south, until a building of red and yellow brick appears between the trees.

Map showing Estanque Grande del Retiro, Parque del Retiro, 28009 Madrid
Estanque Grande del Retiro, Parque del Retiro, 28009 MadridMadrid
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Sources. Story: Hispanopedia, Parque del Buen Retiro and Monumento a Alfonso XII; Ayuntamiento de Madrid, esMadrid. Photos: Photo of the Estanque Grande: Enric, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

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