Rome

Stories in Rome

86 stories about the places on our Rome walks. Hear them on the spot in the app

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One map of Rome. 86 stories on it.

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History

The castle and the executioner

The castle as a prison, and Mastro Titta, the executioner whose crossing of the bridge became a Roman expression.

People

The morning of 11 September

The morning of the execution, the crowd in the square, and the story that took on a life of its own in the years that followed.

Architecture

The Pope's Straight Street

The first straight street of modern Rome, meant to be the city's administrative heart and used as the route to the scaffold.

City Secrets

The Corte Savella Prison

The trial, torture as a tool of evidence, and a pope who refused to show mercy.

History

The square of the burnings

The market where sentences were also carried out, with the statue of Giordano Bruno standing at its centre.

City Secrets

The conversation goes on

Why the statues spoke, what's left of the company, and why notes still hang here today.

Statues

The Water Carrier

A sixteenth-century water carrier, the only one in this little company that isn't an ancient statue.

Statues

The abbot with three names

A toga-clad Roman who lost his head more than once, with a line on the base that he seems to speak himself.

Statues

The Woman of Stone

A colossal bust from an Egyptian sanctuary, the only female voice in the company.

Statues

The one who answered

The river god who asked the question Pasquino answered, until a pope had him moved indoors.

People

What Became of the Liberators

Philippi, the end of Brutus and Cassius, and the emperor who rose from their defeat.

History

The Pyre on the Forum

Marcus Antonius delivering the eulogy, the bloodstained toga, and a crowd that set the pyre alight themselves.

History

Twenty-three stabs

Midday, a petition used as a distraction, and twenty-three wounds of which only one was fatal.

People

The Warnings

A dream, bad omens, and a letter he never read: the morning before he left.

City Secrets

The hall behind the theatre

The senate met in Pompey's hall, where a statue stood of the defeated rival whose name it bore.

Statues

The She-Wolf on the Capitoline

The end of Romulus, three explanations for his grave, and a statue whose dating is still disputed.

People

The rock and the women

The stolen feast, the betrayal of Tarpeia, and the women who stepped between two armies.

City Secrets

The sanctuary

A city with no inhabitants, and a refuge for runaways, debtors and exiles to fill it.

History

The Furrow in the Ground

A plough's furrow marking a sacred boundary, the leap of Remus, and a rule that shaped Roman law for centuries.

City Secrets

The hut and the birds

The hut the Romans kept repairing for a thousand years, and the birds that had to decide who got the city.

History

The She-Wolf and the Shepherd

The cave where the she-wolf is said to have suckled the twins, and the shepherd who carried them home.

Hidden Gems

The keyhole

Through the hole you look down a tunnel of cypresses straight at Saint Peter's, across three sovereign territories at once.

Architecture

The Knights' Square

The only square that printmaker Piranesi ever actually built, filled with obelisks and carved weaponry.

Culture

The cypress wood door

A fifth-century church with a wooden door carved with one of the oldest crucifixion scenes in the world.

Nature

The Orange Garden

A walled garden of bitter orange trees on the ruins of a medieval fortress, looking out over half the city.

Nature

The Rose Garden

Eleven hundred varieties of roses on the site of the old Jewish cemetery, with paths laid out in the shape of a menorah.

Culture

The Slaughterhouse

The slaughterhouse that gave the neighbourhood its kitchen: the fifth quarter, the cuts nobody else would pay for.

City Secrets

The hill of broken shards

Thirty-five metres high and built from more than fifty million broken olive oil amphorae.

People

The Cemetery of the Foreigners

The place where papal Rome buried everyone who wasn't Catholic, with Keats and Shelley lying beneath the cypresses.

Culture

The Bridge of the Angels

Ten angels holding the instruments of the crucifixion, two of which are real and stand elsewhere in the city.

Architecture

The fountain and the facade

Their work stands twenty metres apart here, and that gave the city its finest untrue story.

Hidden Gems

The spiral

A dome on a six-pointed star, crowned with a stone screw that appears nowhere else in the city.

City Secrets

The Elephant and the Obelisk

A marble elephant carrying an Egyptian obelisk on its back, with a tail that seems to be delivering a message.

History

Two riders and an obelisk

Two ancient horsemen, an obelisk from the mausoleum of Augustus, and the finest view of St Peter's dome.

Architecture

Bernini's Answer

The church Bernini himself considered his finest work, with an oval that lies exactly the opposite way to his rival's.

Architecture

The smallest masterpiece

Borromini's first commission of his own, smaller than one of St Peter's piers, with a dome that looks taller than it really is.

Culture

The palace with two staircases

The only building both men worked on at the same time, with Bernini's staircase on the left and Borromini's on the right.

Architecture

The theatre that became a palace

A theatre built by the emperor Augustus that turned into a fortress, then a palace, and today holds apartments.

History

16 October 1943

The morning the neighbourhood was surrounded, and the brass stones that have lain in the pavement ever since.

Culture

The dome that's square

A synagogue that deliberately stands out, with a square dome and the Jewish Museum inside.

History

The fish market under the gate

For centuries the fish market stood under this imperial gate, and a rule about fish heads is still carved into the stone.

Hidden Gems

The house that dated itself

A house from 1468 that dates itself from the founding of Rome: the year 2221.

History

Five gates, three centuries

In 1555 the Jews of Rome were shut behind gates that only came down in 1870.

City Secrets

The street that stayed

The only street of the old ghetto that survived the demolitions of the 1880s.

History

The walls that took the river away

After the flood of 1870, the Tiber was given walls twenty metres high, and Trastevere lost its riverbank.

Architecture

The Bridge of the Four Heads

Rome's oldest bridge that was never rebuilt, with the builder's name carved into the stone four times.

History

The island that became a ship

Twenty-two centuries of medicine, an island disguised as a ship, and a disease invented in 1943.

Culture

The body that hadn't decayed

A sculptor saw the body when the sarcophagus was opened, and carved exactly that from marble.

City Secrets

The market square

A market, a playing field and benches, sitting on top of a monastery that has cared for the sick since the Middle Ages.

Architecture

The oldest fountain

One of the oldest working fountains in the city, fed from the hill you can see rising above the rooftops.

Culture

The Spring of Oil

A mosaic that has hung outdoors for eight hundred years, and Egyptian gods on the columns inside.

Hidden Gems

The district without a plan

District fourteen, last on Augustus's list, where nobody ever drew a map.

City Secrets

The cattle market and the mouth

Rome's oldest harbour, the city's oldest marble building, and a drain cover with a world-famous reputation.

History

The field that held an entire city

A quarter of a million spectators, four stables each with their own colour, and charioteers who earned more than senators.

Hidden Gems

How the Colossus got its name

Two outlines in the paving: a sweating fountain and the statue that gave the Colosseum its name.

Hidden Gems

The school

The gladiator school with its own practice arena, stands for spectators and a tunnel leading to the Colosseum.

Culture

Emperors with someone else's body

The arch is covered in reliefs of earlier emperors, their heads hacked off and recarved.

History

The amphitheatre on a lake

Built on Nero's lake, paid for with the spoils of Jerusalem, and half brought down by an earthquake.

Architecture

The firewall

Thirty metres tall, built to hold back fire from the most densely packed district in the city.

History

The breakthrough of 1932

A parade avenue from 1932 that cost a hill, five hundred houses, and part of the imperial forums.

History

The comic strip nobody could read

A relief two hundred metres long, wound around a column, whose top no one could ever read.

City Secrets

The pit

Prisoners were lowered through a hole in the floor into this space, and they never came back out.

History

The field of the cows

Right up until the nineteenth century, cows grazed here on top of the Forum, which lies eight metres below the city.

People

The Street of the Pipes

This fashion street is named after the water main beneath it, and at number 86 you'll find the oldest café in the city.

Culture

The gridiron

Behind a quiet facade lies the iron gridiron on which, according to tradition, Laurence was roasted alive.

History

The racecourse and the column

A column thirty metres high raised for a philosopher-emperor, and a dead-straight street that spent centuries as a racecourse.

Architecture

Eleven Columns in a Wall

Eleven columns from an imperial temple, built into a customs house that now holds the Chamber of Commerce.

Hidden Gems

The marble foot

A marble foot a metre and a half long, the last trace of an Egyptian sanctuary that once stood beneath this block.

History

The typewriter

Romans call it the typewriter. It cost a medieval neighbourhood, and on the left is the balcony where Mussolini spoke.

City Secrets

The Colony of Torre Argentina

Four temples from the republic, uncovered by a demolition that went wrong, and a cat colony that gets to stay by law.

City Secrets

The field of flowers

The one large square in the old centre without a church, with the half circle of a vanished theatre tucked around the corner.

History

The square that's really a stadium

The shape of the square traces the floor plan of a stadium, and the city's loveliest false story is about the figure with the covered head.

Architecture

The Hole in the Roof

The largest unreinforced dome in the world, with a nine-metre opening that rain has been falling through for eighteen centuries.

Culture

The dome that isn't

The dome above the nave is made of paint, and it only lines up from exactly one spot on the floor.

History

The fountain at the end of a Roman pipe

The water is two thousand years old, the fountain eighteen centuries younger, and off to the right stands a vase that holds nothing up at all.

Culture

The angels that stayed behind

Not one of the ten angels on the Angel Bridge is by Bernini himself. The two he carved with his own hands stand right here.

Culture

The door up close

Inside: the cypress-wood door with one of the oldest crucifixions, and the light coming through alabaster.

Architecture

Bernini's oval

Inside: an oval set crosswise to the entrance, coloured marble, and a saint rising through the vault.

Architecture

Borromini's Dome

Inside, an oval floor plan that never settles, and a dome that looks taller than it really is.

Culture

Maderno's statue

Inside: Maderno's marble statue beneath the high altar, carved after what he saw in 1599.

Culture

The gold and the Egyptian heads

Inside: gold in the apse, scenes by Cavallini, and Egyptian gods on the ancient columns.

Culture

The Rejected Caravaggio

Inside: the empty spot where the rejected Caravaggio once hung, and the pharmacy that served the popes.

Culture

The gridiron of Saint Lawrence

Inside: the iron gridiron in the first chapel on the right, and the tomb of Nicolas Poussin.

Culture

The disc in the floor

Inside: the small marble disc where the painted dome snaps into place, and what happens when you step aside.

Culture

The angels up close

Inside: the two angels Bernini carved with his own hands, and why they never made it to the bridge.

Culture

The pharmacy above the church

A rejected Caravaggio that now hangs in the Louvre, and a seventeenth-century pharmacy above the church.

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