City Secrets Madrid

The city beneath the city

The metro station that became a shelter, and then a home for people who had lost theirs.

1 min readGran Vía

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Madrileños heading for the nearest shelter, 1936.

Beneath the crossing where you're standing lies a metro station from 1919, designed by , and during it served as a shelter and as a place to live, because anyone who lost their home to a bomb could find refuge down below.

Madrid was the first major city in the world to be systematically attacked from the air, and within a few months it had to work out how to live with that, which turned metro stations, cellars and purpose-dug shelters into a second city beneath the first, with its own rules about who slept where.

Antonio Palacios' pavilion above the station entrance, the original of which moved to Galicia.

The entrance you're looking at now is younger than all of that, because the elegant pavilion Palacios built here was torn down in the seventies, and part of it then moved to his home village in Galicia, in Spain's green northwest.

We carry on a little further east, as far as number 12, where you'll find a revolving door set into the facade.

Map showing Gran Vía, hoek Calle de la Montera, 28013 Madrid
Gran Vía, hoek Calle de la Montera, 28013 MadridMadrid
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Sources. Story: Comunidad de Madrid, Metro de Madrid, dossier on the Gran Vía station; Ayuntamiento de Madrid, on the aerial bombardment of Madrid during the Civil War. Photos: Unknown photographer, Running to the nearest shelter, 1936, public domain via Wikimedia Commons. Photo of the metro pavilion: Carel3DS, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

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Walk Madrid during the civil war with ROODS.

The city beneath the city is stop 8 on a 62-minute walk through Madrid. Open ROODS in your browser, walk to a pin and the story plays.

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