City Secrets Madrid

The front in the west

From this edge you look out over the front, which sat barely a kilometre and a half away for almost three years.

1 min readTemplo de Debod

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One of the bunkers still standing among the vegetation in the Parque del Oeste, a few hundred metres from where you're looking.

From this edge you look across the towards the , and in doing so you're looking straight at the front. In November 1936 troops reached the far side of the and stalled there, and from that moment the forward line ran a kilometre and a half from where you're standing. That made Madrid the only European capital with the front line inside its own city limits.

The hill in the distance is called Garabitas. That's where the artillery stood that shelled the city, and because those guns sat higher than Madrid they could reach the whole centre. In the Parque del Oeste below you the concrete bunkers and trenches are still there, overgrown but intact.

Stand here at sunset and you'll see what everyone sees, a panorama with the mountains behind it, while what lies beneath was no man's land for three years.

We leave the park on the north side and follow the Calle de Ferraz eastward.

Map showing Templo de Debod, Paseo del Pintor Rosales, 28008 Madrid
Templo de Debod, Paseo del Pintor Rosales, 28008 MadridMadrid
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Sources. Story: Ayuntamiento de Madrid, Parque del Oeste, dossier on the remains of the front; Hispanopedia, Batalla de Madrid. Photos: Photo of the bunker in the Parque del Oeste: Javier Perez Montes, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons.

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Walk Madrid during the civil war with ROODS.

The front in the west is stop 2 on a 62-minute walk through Madrid. Open ROODS in your browser, walk to a pin and the story plays.

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