Vienna

Stories in Vienna

84 stories about the places on our Vienna walks. Hear them on the spot in the app

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History

Tens of thousands in the streets

Beethoven died here, and three days later half the city followed his coffin.

People

The rooms he kept coming back to

Beethoven left this place so often, and returned so often, that his landlord simply let the rooms stand empty.

History

The Lord of the Village

On the estate of the family who lived in this palace, a wheelwright's son was born.

People

The Italians at Court

The church with the blunted tower is Vienna's Italian church, and it was the Italians who set the tone for the music here.

People

The attic and the court poet

Four floors up, under the roof, slept the seventeen-year-old Haydn, while the court poet lived below.

City Secrets

The publisher who cashed in

On this expensive shopping street sat the publisher who made money off Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven.

Architecture

The prince who actually paid

Behind this facade the Eroica rang out for the first time, and you can still visit the hall.

Culture

The theatre that isn't there anymore

On this corner stood the theatre where the Ninth Symphony rang out for a man who couldn't hear a note of it.

Culture

Selling the tickets himself

On this square Mozart rented the hall himself, sold the tickets himself and played the lead himself.

History

The Department Store on the Death Site

Behind the glass front of this department store stood the house where Mozart died at the age of thirty-five.

City Secrets

Kicked Down the Stairs

This is where Mozart was literally booted out the door in 1781, and he never quite got over it.

People

The priciest years

The only home Mozart lived in that Vienna still has, and the most expensive one he ever rented.

History

The palace with fourteen hundred rooms

A six-year-old Mozart played here for the empress, and Franz Joseph was both born and died within these walls.

History

A ruin that was never whole

This ruin was built as a ruin in 1778, cracks and all, and a hundred metres away lies the spring that gave the city its name.

City Secrets

The obelisk with the made-up symbols

An Egyptian obelisk resting on four gilded turtles, covered in hieroglyphs that nobody could read.

Architecture

A monument to a war that was lost

Built from the stones of a demolished castle, as a monument to a war that was barely won.

Statues

The fountain from her final year

Maria Theresia had this fountain built in the year she died, the last piece of her garden to be completed.

Activities

The Maze That Came Back

The original maze vanished in the nineteenth century and was replanted in 1999, following the old floor plan.

Activities

The oldest zoo in the world

The oldest zoo in the world began as a menagerie where the court ate breakfast, with the animal enclosures arranged in a ring around them.

Nature

A desert under glass

A greenhouse that started out as a sundial house and now holds a desert, complete with naked mole-rats.

Architecture

A bridge made of glass

A hundred and eleven metres of iron and glass, built by a bridge builder, holding three climates under one roof.

History

The Gate to the Imperial Garden

This park was an imperial hunting ground until Joseph the Second opened the gates to everyone.

City Secrets

A station for a single passenger

A complete metro station built for one passenger, who by all accounts barely used it.

Architecture

Burned Down Twice

A pilgrimage church that Ottoman armies destroyed twice and that was rebuilt twice.

Cafés

The debut his father forbade

This is where Johann Strauss the Younger made his debut against his father's wishes, and the hall demanded nineteen encores.

Neighbourhoods

The second tower

Two towers, a garden for everyone and a district that started over. This is what Leopoldstadt made of it.

History

The tower that can't be removed

Fifty-five metres of concrete, built with forced labour, and too heavy ever to clear away.

Culture

Singers and porcelain

A baroque palace in the park is home to the Sängerknaben, and right beside it porcelain has been fired for three centuries.

Nature

Dedicated to all people

An imperial garden thrown open in 1775, with a dedication to all people carved above the gate.

History

The Church on the Synagogue

This church stands where a synagogue was torn down in 1670, and the neighbourhood is named after the emperor who ordered it.

Eten en Drinken

The Market of 1671

This market was granted its charter in 1671, by the same emperor who had emptied the neighbourhood a year earlier.

Architecture

The church that gave the neighbourhood its name

The church that gave this neighbourhood its name went up in flames in 1683, along with the rest of the suburbs.

Neighbourhoods

The Mazzesinsel

Around 1910 a third of the district lived in these streets, with their own schools, shops and theatres.

People

The waltz nobody wanted at first

The Blue Danube was written in this house, and at its premiere it fell completely flat.

Culture

The theatre behind the shelves

For half a century, behind the shelves of a supermarket, sat a complete Art Nouveau theatre.

History

Four white columns

A synagogue for two thousand people once stood here, copied as far away as Bucharest. Four white columns now trace its outline.

History

The road north

The road to Prague ran right through here, and anyone who wasn't allowed into the city itself ended up living on this side.

Neighbourhoods

The year it all stopped

In 1918 Klimt, Wagner, Moser and Schiele all died within a single year, and with them this city ceased to exist.

Culture

The Slap Concert

A concert in this hall got so out of hand that it went down in history as the slap concert.

City Secrets

The house they walked out of

The house they walked out of, and the argument that led up to it, came down to money and influence more than anything else.

Architecture

A station as a calling card

A city tram stop got marble, gold and sunflowers, because to Wagner public transport mattered.

Culture

Mahler closes the doors

For ten years Mahler ran this house, and he started by shutting the doors once the music began.

Cafés

Café Nihilism

The interior was so bare that Vienna renamed the place Café Nihilism, and that is exactly why everyone turned up.

Culture

The academy that said no

Two years running, this academy turned away the same applicant, and watched another walk out in protest.

Architecture

The Golden Cabbage

The Viennese christened the gilded dome the golden cabbage straightaway, and that is what it has stayed ever since.

Culture

The birdcatcher above the gate

Above a side gate of this theatre stands the man who had it built, dressed as a birdcatcher.

Eten en Drinken

The river beneath the market

Under the stalls of Vienna's most famous market runs a river the city would rather forget.

City Secrets

The glass bathtub

Otto Wagner had a bathroom with a glass bathtub built for himself, and first put it on display at an exhibition.

Architecture

The boulevard that never came

Two facades of a boulevard that was never finished, one covered in tiled flowers, the other in gold.

History

February 1934

On the twelfth of February 1934, the party headquarters was stormed, and four days later the republic had become a dictatorship.

People

The Man Who Sent the Bill

Sixty thousand homes, built without a single loan. The man behind that feat was thoroughly hated for it.

Culture

What had to come besides homes

Every newborn Viennese received a package of nappies from the city. Homes alone were not enough.

History

The Arbeitergasse and the bed renters

At night, someone different slept in the bed than during the day. This is how Vienna lived before the municipal housing arrived.

People

An Italian in Margareten

Vienna named an apartment block after Mussolini's most famous victim, even as its own government was busy courting good relations with Rome.

History

The Names They Chiselled Off

In 1934, the names of dozens of municipal housing blocks were chiselled off their façades. This one got its own back.

People

The Poet on the Facade

A housing block named after a poet who wrote that every wheel grinds to a halt the moment the strong arm wills it.

History

Where it began

Vienna's first real municipal housing block, half still from the imperial era and half already Red Vienna.

Architecture

The showpiece

The block that ended up on the postcards, built like a palace for working-class families.

Architecture

The Ringstraße of the Proletariat

Gates, towers and a courtyard of honour, built for families who had their own tap for the first time.

History

The clock everyone passes by

On the oldest square in Vienna, the mayor and the commander of 1683 file past one behind the other every day at noon.

Cafés

The first coffee house

The coffee house owes its existence to the siege, just not to the hero the story usually credits.

History

The tower that watched for rescue

From this tower, Vienna kept its eyes fixed on the help that was coming. The country's largest bell was cast from captured cannon.

Architecture

The Church That Came After the Fear

A church that exists because of a promise made during the plague years, built in the century when Vienna finally let go of its fear.

History

The king nobody quite knew how to thank

The city had been saved by a Polish king, and the emperor wasn't sure how to go about thanking him.

People

The Emperor Who Left

The emperor fled the city before the siege closed in. The square where he rode off would later become the address of power.

History

The bastion that broke

The Löbelbastei stood here, where the wall gave way. The street name is all that's left of it.

Architecture

The field that had to stay empty

Vienna's widest boulevard exists because for centuries nothing was allowed to stand here: this was the field of fire.

Architecture

The last stretch of wall

The last piece of Vienna's fortifications, and the spot where it becomes clear why the Ottomans dug beneath the wall.

People

The man who refused

Starhemberg was offered the chance to surrender the city, and he turned it down. He lies buried beneath the church on this square.

City Secrets

The Horseman on the Facade

A baker's apprentice heard digging beneath his cellar and saved the city. Trouble is, almost none of that story holds up.

History

Am Hof, where the city armed itself

The emperor left, the citizens stayed. This square held the arsenal where Vienna equipped itself.

History

The column for a disaster that came first

Four years before the siege, Vienna already stood half empty because of the plague. The column on the Graben explains why the city was so vulnerable.

People

Geneva, and what is left

Weihburggasse 3, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

Culture

The book she locked away

Josefsplatz, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

Statues

The face she never wanted sold

Volksgarten, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

People

Three hours of hair

In der Burg, Hofburg (Route 1)

Taste

Violets and hunger cures

Kohlmarkt 14, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

History

Three churches, one empress

Stephansplatz, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

People

The hotel and the empress

Weihburggasse 3, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

History

The stars in her hair

Neuer Markt 15, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

Neighbourhoods

What's Left of It

Vienna still owns well over two hundred thousand municipal flats, and that's why housing works differently here.

Neighbourhoods

Seven springs and a village

Beneath the apartment blocks lies a village with vineyards, still visible in the curves of the streets.

People

The best rider in Europe

Reitschulgasse, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

Architecture

A front door finished too late

Michaelerplatz, Innere Stadt (Route 1)

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