Madrid

Stories in Madrid

88 stories about the places on our Madrid walks. Hear them on the spot in the app

Hear them where they happened

One map of Madrid. 88 stories on it.

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Artworks

The kings in the park

The kings who were carved for the roof of the palace and ended up scattered across the city.

Culture

Las Carboneras

The enclosed convent where the sisters sell biscuits through a revolving hatch, without ever being seen.

Hidden Gems

The Elbow

The tightest bend in old Madrid, where the street plan is still medieval.

City Secrets

The pillory

The street named after the pillory, and how punishment stayed a public spectacle for centuries.

Architecture

The viaduct

The bridge over the ravine, the reputation it earned, and the screens that put an end to it.

History

Plaza de la Paja

The heart of medieval Madrid, and the question of where a growing city puts its dead.

Hidden Gems

Capilla del Obispo

A Gothic funerary chapel full of alabaster, built by a family who kept the body of the city's patron saint in their own home.

Architecture

San Pedro el Viejo

One of Madrid's two oldest towers, built by the craftsmen who stayed on after the conquest.

History

Plaza de la Cebada

The barley square, the market and the scaffold, where Luis Candelas was garrotted in 1837.

History

Puerta Cerrada

The city gate that got its name from the decision to keep it shut at night.

Neighbourhoods

Cava Baja

The filled-in ditch that became Madrid's street of inns, with everything that came along with it.

Architecture

Colegiata de San Isidro

The Jesuit church that changed hands three times and burned out in 1936.

City Secrets

The street of the head

The street of the head, and what a story like this is doing in a city.

Hidden Gems

Back at the Plaza de Lavapiés

The walk ends in the square where it began, with the metro running under your feet.

City Secrets

The synagogue that never was

The story that Lavapiés was the Jewish quarter, and what happens when you hold it up against the evidence.

Neighbourhoods

Calle del Ave María

The street where the neighbourhood gathers in the evening, and where wave after wave of residents stand side by side.

Architecture

Iglesia de San Cayetano

A baroque facade that survived the fire of 1936 while everything behind it vanished.

Artworks

The hero of Cascorro

The statue of a foundling who took on a mission with a can of petroleum and a rope tied around his waist.

Neighbourhoods

Ribera de Curtidores

The street of the tanners, the slope of the slaughterhouse, and the market that takes its name from them.

History

The Tobacco Factory

The factory where three thousand women rolled cigars and rose up in revolt in 1830. Inside, a second story is waiting for you.

History

La Corrala

The housing style Madrid built for its workers, with galleries running around a courtyard and thirty square metres per family.

Architecture

Escuelas Pías de San Fernando

A church that burned out in 1936 and stood as a ruin for seventy years, until a library was built inside it.

Hidden Gems

Mercado de San Fernando

A market hall from 1944, built on the grounds of a burned-out monastery, that reinvented itself.

Culture

Teatro Valle-Inclán

A national theatre on a square that was long considered the wrong side of town.

Hidden Gems

The oldest tree in Madrid

The oldest tree in Madrid is a Mexican swamp cypress that has stood here for four hundred years.

History

El Estanque

The pond where the royal court staged mock sea battles, with the monument to Alfonso XII rising on the far side.

History

Palacio de Cristal

A greenhouse of glass and cast iron from 1887, built for a colonial exhibition with a human zoo beside it.

Artworks

El Ángel Caído

One of the few public statues in the world depicting the devil, standing at six hundred and sixty-six metres above sea level.

Architecture

Real Observatorio

The observatory that Villanueva built, the telescope French soldiers melted down, and the end of our walk.

Hidden Gems

Real Jardín Botánico

The garden where everything the Spanish expeditions brought back landed. Indoor stop, ticket required.

Museums

Museo del Prado

A cabinet of physics that turned into a museum, and the night Las Meninas was driven out of the city.

Neighbourhoods

The Salón del Prado

The meadow that became a salon, shaped like a Roman racecourse and anchored by three fountains.

Architecture

Palacio de Cibeles

A post office that looks like a cathedral, built by two architects who were both still under thirty.

Culture

Chicote

Spain's first cocktail bar, which stayed open when the shells came in, and the end of the walk.

City Secrets

The city beneath the city

The metro station that became a shelter, and then a home for people who had lost theirs.

Architecture

Censorship on the fifth floor

The fifth floor where every foreign dispatch had to pass through, in the building that also served as an aiming point.

People

Hotel Florida

The hotel where the foreign press sat out the war, with hot water while the rest of the city queued for everything.

Culture

Avenida de los Obuses

The people of Madrid called this street Shell Avenue, and life simply carried on.

Neighbourhoods

November 1936

November 1936, when everyone expected the city to fall within days and the Gran Vía was given a new name.

People

Two Cannons on the Calle de Ferraz

The street where two field guns were set up, aimed at the barracks standing among the houses.

City Secrets

The front in the west

From this edge you look out over the front, which sat barely a kilometre and a half away for almost three years.

Neighbourhoods

The news that rode out of the city

How the news rode out of the city and sparked a war that lasted six years, with the way back to the Puerta del Sol.

Hidden Gems

Iglesia de la Buena Dicha

The charity hospital where the wounded were carried, with the little graveyard behind it where Manuela Malasaña lies. Inside, a second story waits for you.

Artworks

The Night of the Executions

The executions that night on a hill to the west, and the painting that shapes how we picture it.

History

The wide street

The wide street the columns marched down, and the night Madrid fell under martial law.

People

Manuela Malasaña

The seventeen-year-old embroiderer who gave her name to an entire neighbourhood, and what really happened to her.

History

The Gate of Monteleón

The one barracks where there actually was fighting that day, and the two officers who set their orders aside.

Museums

Museo de Historia de Madrid

A former almshouse with the most exuberant Baroque doorway in Spain, now home to the city museum. Free entry.

Hidden Gems

Plaza de San Ildefonso

The square of a neighbourhood that renamed itself after a single day, street by street.

Neighbourhoods

The streets that are gone

This is where the neighbourhood bands came together, and a century later a stretch of the battlefield vanished beneath a new street.

City Secrets

Fighting with Whatever Was at Hand

A city that fought with scissors, stones and flowerpots, while its own army stayed in the barracks.

Architecture

Real Casa de Correos

The only building on this square that witnessed the second of May, and the decree that was signed that afternoon.

Artworks

The Charge of the Mamelukes

What Goya painted six years later happened right here: the imperial cavalry against an unarmed crowd.

Neighbourhoods

Back on the Plaza de Santa Ana

The end of the walk, with the spoils of fame divided and the way back to the metro.

History

Iglesia de San Sebastián

The parish of the famous, with a tower that stops halfway up and a second story waiting inside.

City Secrets

The printing house of Juan de la Cuesta

The print shop where Don Quixote first came off the press, on paper paid for with borrowed money.

Culture

The letters in the pavement

The brass quotations set into the pavement, and the women writers who were only added later.

History

Convento de las Trinitarias

Cervantes lies buried behind this wall, and it took four centuries before anyone could say exactly where.

Museums

Casa Museo Lope de Vega

Lope de Vega bought this house at forty-eight and stayed until his death; inside, a second story is waiting for you.

City Secrets

The actors' corner

The corner where actors signed their contracts, and where Cervantes spent his final years.

Culture

Ateneo de Madrid

The society behind this door counted Larra as member number one, and in 1932 it held a vote on whether God exists.

Culture

Teatro de la Comedia

This is where the national company stages the Golden Age, a hundred metres from the streets where that repertoire was written.

History

Teatro Español

The only theatre in Madrid still standing on its old corral, and the sausage war the audience fought out here.

Architecture

Gran Via

The boulevard that cost fourteen streets their existence, home to Spain's very first skyscraper.

Culture

San Ginés

The church where Quevedo was baptised and Lope de Vega married, with a chocolate house down the alley beside it.

Culture

Teatro Real

An opera house built over an old stream, which stayed shut for more than forty years after work on the metro began.

Statues

Plaza de Oriente

A rearing bronze horse that needed some maths to stay up, and a row of kings who never made it onto the roof.

History

Palacio Real

How a fire on Christmas night in 1734 gave Western Europe its largest royal palace.

Architecture

Catedral de la Almudena

A cathedral that began as a tomb for an eighteen-year-old queen and took a hundred and ten years to finish.

History

A Bomb in a Bouquet

The 1906 attack on the wedding procession of Alfonso XIII, with a bomb hidden inside a bouquet of flowers.

History

Plaza de la Villa

Three centuries of government around a small square, home to the oldest civic building in the city.

Architecture

Mercado de San Miguel

Madrid's last iron market hall, built on the site of the church where the poet Lope de Vega was baptised.

Taste

Arco de Cuchilleros

The staircase that gives away how much higher the Plaza Mayor sits, and the oldest restaurant in the world tucked beneath it.

History

Plaza Mayor

The square where power put itself on display before the city, with autos de fe, bullfights and an equestrian statue full of sparrows.

City Secrets

The bear, the strawberry tree and kilometre zero

A quarrel over a forest, the stone where every Spanish road begins its count, and the clock that brings the whole country to a standstill on New Year's Eve.

Culture

Inside the Tabacalera

What became of the factory: exhibition halls, a courtyard, and walls covered in paint.

History

Inside the Trinitarias

A bare convent church with the memorial holding what has been recovered of Cervantes.

Artworks

Inside San Ginés

The painting that passed for a copy for three centuries, until someone found the signature.

Architecture

Inside the Buena Dicha

An art nouveau church in a city full of baroque, with a blue starry vault above the altar.

Museums

Inside the city museum

A Goya whose portrait got painted over every time the politics shifted, and the 1830 scale model of Madrid.

History

Inside San Sebastián

The architects' chapel, the one belonging to the actors, and somewhere beneath the floor the lost grave of Lope de Vega.

Museums

Inside Lope de Vega's house

The little garden Lope wrote about, the rooms of a seventeenth-century household, and the oratory at the top of the stairs.

People

The feud between Quevedo and Góngora

Quevedo bought the house where his arch-enemy Góngora lived, with only one thing in mind.

Culture

Inside the Almudena

Inside the Almudena: a ceiling in vivid colours, a church that faces the wrong way, and a crypt full of columns.

Culture

Palacio de Velázquez

The brick-and-ceramic pavilion that survived, while exhibition buildings were usually torn down.

Culture

Cuesta de Moyano

Thirty wooden stalls full of second-hand books, lined up on the same slope for a century.

Culture

Fuente de Neptuno

Two fountains from a single design facing each other, and the football city that turned them into enemies.

Architecture

Cine Doré

A modernist facade that stands out in Madrid, with the cinema of the Spanish film archive behind it.

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